Hard for me to know for sure without seeing it, but there are a few things that could have caused this. This is a situation where water vapor gets trapped in the finish and causes cloudiness. I honestly haven’t seen this much with polys . And I’m not sure what your weather conditions are so I can’t say for sure. Just throwing this out there as a possibility. Some people prefer to toss a brush after each use, but when you buy a quality brush it can last for weeks of use with proper care.
- This reaction tells me that they think they know everything and don’t want to learn anything new.
- So READ THE LABEL and understand the requirements before starting.
- Adding Penetrol to polyurethane slows its drying so dust has more time to settle and stick to the finish.
- It looks pretty pink even right after staining, so I don’t think the white stain is on Red Oak is what you want.
- Therma-Tru, a pioneer in the fiberglass door business, started manufacturing fiberglass doors in 1983.
- We hope you enjoyed our rundown of the top water-based polyurethanes for wood floors.
- But it will have made all the difference if you have prepped your surface properly.
- And this could cause the finish to crack, peel or even blister.
- Depending on the project, I use either wipe-on or brush-on polyurethane on most of my work.
- I’m a little bit apprehensive, but it has to get done.
- There’s no doubt that Bona Mega Wood Floor Finish is our top waterborne polyurethane product.
- Alkyd is a substance found in basically any varnish or oil-based paint.
You don’t need to apply the number of coats that you need for wipe-on poly. On pine, Varathane Classic Black had the most contrast and distinct grain lines. India Ink was definitely the blackest black, with just a hint of grain pattern. Minwax True Black is a happy medium between visible grain pattern and black color. India Ink was the messiest to work with (probably because it’s meant for calligraphy, not wood stain!) It dried really fast, so it’s harder to wipe off the excess. You can see on the poplar and maple samples that there was a little too much on the second coat that couldn’t be removed, which resulted in a shiny spot.
Anyone Use Minwax Polyshades?
Please help with this challenge i am having. And again thanks for all you previous advise. I ran a trial with the matching bar stools using Helmsman natural oil-based stain, Helmsman semi-gloss polyurethane, and a brush with good results. But that was easy because I was working with such small surface area.
There are a few surface prep requirements. However, the work shouldn’t be enough to deter you from this product. You can find these suggestions in the Varathane product pamphlet. This crystal clear floor treatment has excellent adhesion properties. As with most water-based polyurethane products, you don’t have to worry about high VOC content or lingering odors. You must apply a minimum of four coats to get Varathane’s promised durability.
Black Wood Stain Samples On Poplar
When you paint polyurethane with a brush, there is a much greater chance of creating bubbles on the polyurethane surface. You also have to be incredibly careful when brushing, as there is always the possibility of leaving brush marks and bumps in the finish. You could also trap moisture in the polyurethane when brushing incorrectly which will result in a cloudy finish. Choosing to use polyurethane spray removes these difficulties. It allows you to apply even coatings over difficult to reach areas and strangely shaped contours.
I would like to refinish my mahogany exterior door with spar varnish, but I don’t want the high gloss look. Unless I’m missing something it seems that the super protective epifanes spar varnish has only a glossy finish. How can I tone down the shine and still get the protection. From my experience, with proper surface preparation, you can successfully put poly over lacquer.
Now for the ice cream maker, I need to give the disclaimer that I have absolutely NO experience in this are. And what may be best for wood may not be best for the ice cream making process. So if the instructions say you need to swell the wood, I wouldn’t recommend applying a finish to the interior. Finish is only going to impede absorption of moisture, as intended. But in this case, it sounds like you need the absorption to occur. Now you can probably finish the outside with a few coats of any exterior finish, but that makes me a little bit concerned as well.
Should give you an idea as to whether your sanding efforts were effective. I used this method on a tv cabinet, 50/50 mineral spirits and good quality spar varnish I had. I actually hated the brush marks on my fisrt coats, thats why I used this method.
I think it helps seal the edges down and gives a uniform sheen between paint, plastic, and decals. In our cabinet shop, I do use Bondo to patch paintable materials, but usually limit its use to either small repairs or use on inert panels, such as MDF. Real wood, in an exterior environment, is going to exppand and contract; Bondo won’t. Sooner or later, you’re going to know where the Bondo is. I’ve wanted to try CPES but heard West is as good or better.
If you want to spray polyurethane, then you will need a great sprayer to get the job done properly. Using this airless sprayer by Graco offers ultimate convenience and ease of use. First of all, this is a cordless, airless sprayer.
Did You Make This Project?
Unfortunately the sanding left a lighter uneven color than I wanted so I’d like to give the bench a new finish. Should I resand the bench again, lightly apply some mineral spirits to the bench, or just add the finish directly then follow with the urethane. Sometimes, in order to get rid of flaws in a previous coat, you can simply put a thicker/smoother coat over top of it. The problem with wiping is that you are essentially applying a very thin coat. So it is just going to follow the contours of the surface.
Its performance is most noticeable when staining common wood surfaces such as doors, cabinets, and accessories. Every woodwork or DIY project requires a stain coating that can enhance the color of the wood and even improve the durability of the wood. It is a necessary part of the job that can provide a professional finish that can completely overhaul its look. One can even apply stain coating over polyurethane finishes. Polyurethane finish is a brushable liquid that takes a relatively long time to make ready for another coat.
At each step in this process you want to apply thin, even coats, with no drips, runs, or puddles. Spar urethane, on the other hand, is commonly used on wood that is commonly exposed to the light, heat and sun. This is also a common finishing used for things that are submerged in water like boats because of its resistance to water. Some paints also contain polyurethane for extra smooth and shine. Polyurethane is used to acquire a smooth, blemish free texture on the products. Adding Penetrol to polyurethane slows its drying so dust has more time to settle and stick to the finish.
Any thoughts on drying times for Spar Varnish (solvent based Ace/Valspar), mixed at 50/50 with thinner? Wiping varnish blend on redwood – mostly sapwood. Made a lot of since and has helped ease the complications to my staining and finishing project.
Myths about polyurethane are a good example of the problem. For interior wood finishes, Google, “Bob Flexner”. Although I don’t follow every suggestion of his to the letter, I’ve learned a ton just by reading & reviewing his various publications & internet submissions. Apply Minwax water-based Pre-Stain Conditioner over every surface.
— jennifer (@jenn1662) August 15, 2013
I just recently purchased a 1920’s tudor and I decided to refinish my wood front door as it was cracking and peeling. After stripping and sanding minwax vs varathane the door to bare wood I applied 2 coats of oil based Minwax stain. I waited the proper amount of time between coats as Minwax recommends.
Best thing in a kitchen is a good polyurethane varnish. You might want to overcoat the oil/varnish with a couple of coats of varnish. That will do more for long term appearence and durability than frequent waxing. These formulas are usually non-yellowing and easy to maintain. Keep in mind that most water-based polyurethanes only provide superior protection when they are applied in layers.
or do i drag it in straight overlapping line similar like brushing it on? Something as simple as a dye or stain could very well bring the two tones into the same family. Shellac really won’t help you much since its just a clear coat. You could use amber shellac or orange shellac, but I’m not sure that will give you the “natural” color you’re looking for.
I’ve used other kind of finish and this my new favorite. I don’t like sanding between coats or the scratches in other finishes or trying to repair said scratches. Waterlox makes a UV product as well, good-by Helmsman Spar. I used Waterlox’s True Tone for my base coat to give the wood some color then top coated with either original or the marine formula if exposed to sunlight.
— RatherGet (@RatherGetApp) October 12, 2015
Now I haven’t really tested General Finishes 450 on a long-term project. But getting 10 years out of a water-based exterior finish is pretty darn good so you might consider using the same product you used before. Sorry to hear about the trouble you are having with the door. If you read through the comments above, you’ll see that other folks have had issues with Helmsman. Nearly every time I hear an issue with speckles, cloudiness, or flaking finish, they are nearly always using Helmsman.
Coat after coat, I’ve still been getting brush strokes. I started with new, pro Purdy bristle brushes, then went to foam brushes, but it continues to show brush strokes and appears to lay on in uneven coats. Some areas are noticeable “dry” looking with brush strokes long after it dries.
So my recommendation would be to apply the stain in a warmer environment. Bring in a little space heater if you have to. If you touch the surface the next day and the door feel even a little tacky, leave it alone. The surface should feel dry and no colder than room temp. At this point, it should be safe to apply the topcoat.
We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. Slanting a panel 5° or 10° is not the way to reduce brush marking, but this has actually been suggested recently. You would have thought furniture finishers working during the last several hundred years would have figured this out if it were true. The amount of thinner necessary varies with brands.
In fact, I educated the sales guy somewhat, thanks to you, on varnish and the resins which make one varnish superior to others. I will be shopping for conditioner and stain over the next few days. But how much you sand the surface really depends on the extent of the damage and how much work you want to do.
Once the surface is flat and smooth, switch to the wiping method. Its almost impossible to wind up with a perfectly smooth surface with no dust nibs, and sanding helps alleviate that. Just feel around with your hand for any rough areas and hit it lightly with some 320 grit paper. Wipe away the dust with a rag with some mineral spirits on it, then proceed with the next coat of finish. Brush-on polyurethane provides excellent protection in just a few coats. However, it can be difficult to apply without brush marks and drips.
Can you do the same thing with the water based finish? Can you use it like a concealer for furniture? I have an oak desk that looks pretty bad. It has a cracked polyurethane finish on it. Or is there any other prep you’d recommend. I stripped the polyurethane off and sanded it off… wow it was a mess and a lot of hard work.